With serious watchmakers finally having got serious about making serious watches for women over the past few years, isn’t it time you also got serious about curating a serious collection? Seriously. With women currently representing around 25-35 per cent of the mechanical watch market, a figure expected to rise to 45 per cent by 2030, savvy watchmakers are increasingly adding genderless and female-centric designs to their core collections, meaning there’s now an abundance of choice for those of us not wishing to be weighed down by a 46mm behemoth of a wristwatch.

So, with the first crop of 2026’s best new watches for women just unveiled at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, what should be on your wish list? Here’s my guide to the latest references proving that great things really do come in small(er) packages. Vacheron Constantin Égérie Moonphase Spring Blossom This exceptionally pretty timepiece is a true marriage of form and function.

Inspired by Japan’s famed sakura celebrations and the craftsmanship of Haute Couture fashion, its pink mother-of-pearl dial is complemented by a handpainted calfskin strap decorated with delicate cherry blossoms — the first time Vacheron has used the technique in this way. Beneath all the diamonds (of which there are 94), 18ct pink gold and semi-precious stones, meanwhile, is some highly sophisticated watchmaking, with a calibre 1088L self-winding movement powering an off-set moonphase indicator. Naturally, it’s strictly limited to 100 pieces. £42,300, vacheron-constantin.com Patek Philippe Ref. 3738/100G At just 5.9mm thick, the new Patek Philippe Ref. 3738/100G Golden Ellipse now ranks as the thinnest watch in the house’s current collection.

Its diminutive case size of just 31.1 x 35.6mm makes it all the more impressive that this is a serious bit of horological kit, powered by a calibre 240 self-winding movement with a 48-hour power reserve. For me, though, it’s the aesthetically pleasing curves of that elliptical case and deep olive green sunburst dial that really seal the deal. £32,700, patek.com Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Rencontre Céleste and Lady Retrouvailles Célestes Van Cleef can always be relied upon to serve up some incredible metiers d’art and, for 2026, that comes in the form of a pair of watches: Lady Rencontre Céleste and Lady Retrouvailles Célestes.

Part of the Parisian maison’s overarching theme of ‘Poetry of Time’, these two extraordinary watches are inspired by the legend of Vega and Altair (also known as Niulang and Zhinu): two lovers forced apart by a celestial river and only able to unite once a year on the seventh night of the seventh moon. Imbued with the romance of precious stones, including sapphires, diamonds, and mother-of-pearl, alongside miniature painting and enamelling, nothing has been sacrificed in terms of horology either, with each boasting a manual-winding mechanical movement. £201,000, vancleefarpels.com Zenith Defy Skyline 36 Not so much an innovation as an evolution, the Defy Skyline has become something of a Zenith signature since it was introduced in 2022 – and it’s not hard to see why.

Architectural, sleek and crowd-pleasing, it now comes in a breadth of sizes and colour options so as to suit pretty much every taste and style. Which makes one wonder why it took Zenith so long to add something as understated and versatile as this silver-dialled 36mm reference. Joining the core collection alongside the existing deep blue, ice blue, green and pink options, the 1960s-inspired styling feels even more striking in space-age metallics, while the watch is powered by the same Elite 670 automatic calibre as its siblings.

Feel the need for a little colour? An easy interchangeable strap system means a choice of vibrant rubber straps is just a click away. So, will that be with or without diamonds?

From approx. £7,900, zenith-watches.com Hublot Big Bang Joyful Steel Purple For whatever reason, purple has never been a hue to find favour with Swiss watchmakers. Blue, green, brown, even pink, have all had their moment in the horological sun but purple has remained largely sidelined. Until now.

It makes sense, of course, that Hublot – long one of the boldest in the watchmaking community – should be the one to go first, with a vibrant new violet hue joining its rainbow of Big Bang Joyful Steel watches. Packed into a diminutive 33mm steel case, the family of watches is powered by an in-house HUB1120 self-winding movement and features Hublot’s signature sporty styling, with 100m water resistance, date window, collegiate-style numerals, 40-hour power reserve, and choice of two interchangeable rubber straps. A final feminine flourish comes courtesy of a bezel studded with 36 sparkling amethysts. £12,200, hublot.com Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One La Vallée des Merveilles Jaeger-LeCoultre used the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2026 to announce La Vallée des Merveilles: a series of Métiers Rares capsule collections dedicated to paying homage to the beauty of nature via